Mexicano Bordado or Mexican Embroidery

                 My fascination with embroidery vacillates between jumping in and beginning an elaborate project inspired by what I might have seen in a masterful piece with its exquisite details and the skilled workmanship of experienced fingers evident in its thread work; or getting so overwhelmed so as to not even be able to adapt and attempt it on a smaller manageable piece. And yet keep visiting it again and again with passionate yearning wanting to do it. Art is an incredibly important part of knowing a culture, and I am so glad to be able to learn about different cultures this way, through my blog, exploring different art craft forms.                 

               Mexico is one of the few cultures around the world where some of the indigenous communities hand make their garments; a tradition seen from centuries ago and a mark of Mexican cultural identity. I have had the privilege of seeing some of the cultural richness of Mexican embroidery and noticing the details and intricacies. Traditional costumes and textiles distinguish the origins, culture, ethnicity, social status, and marital status of the indigenous people and I am loving learning to identify the distinctive costumes of many groups and regions. It has been captivating to see such a visual expression of culture and identity. You see them on peasant tops, dresses, belts, table runners, wallets, clutches, aprons, home décor items like cushion covers, wall hangings and a myriad other things. 

               

            One such bright, funky, and beautiful set of work is what I am interpreting and trying my hand at for this blog post. Most commonly noticeable in Mexico is the vibrant embroidery on clothing and textiles. The most common background fabric colors are white and off-white, with elements of embroidery not only in realistic colors but also very bright colors. Tight clusters of flowers on elaborate local folk clothing can be seen either all in a single bright color or multicolored. The glorious history it narrates is seen in the commonly used precise satin stitch that covers the flower patterns.             
  

                 As you walk through you notice the communal and everyday nature of arts and crafts, and Mexican embroidery is similarly enthralling and of particular interest, many of the artisans are taught by their mothers and grandmothers from the ages of 5 and 6. The most intricate designs were learned by heart and followed intuitively without patterns. Women support their families and generate financial independence and autonomy for themselves too. Women describe their work with great pride especially the hours invested as well as the significance of the colors, motifs and designs to their culture, heritage and tradition. The most touching sentiment for me is that the women inherently expressed their emotions and feelings and embodied aspects of their personalities, lives and experiences in their embroideries.

             Hope you like my humble interpretation of this precious Mexicano bordado; a colorful tasseled door hanger for a spot of bright color.

Credits:

http://www.mexiconewsnetwork.com/art-culture/mexican-embroidery/

http://www.rebeccadevaney.ie/mexican-embroidery/

Swedish Embroidery

  Delsbosöm Embroidery

“My wife always bears the scent of roses. I don’t know how she accomplishes this, because she doesn’t use perfume. Maybe it’s her soap or sachets in her wardrobe. It’s just her…her fragrance. Blindfolded I could pick her out from a hundred other women by scent alone.”

                                                                                              -The Duke and His Duchess/ The Courtship by Grace Burrowes.

           
          

           As I dream of the romance in that sentiment, I see myself standing in a pool of warm sunlight streaming through the windows, intoxicating heady scents of flowers engulfing me, surrounded by monogrammed soft linen in a variety of textures, and running my hands over the softness of fabrics, inhaling in the fresh supplies of scented sachets between crisp white snowy piles of sheets and wishing that moment never fades. So it was natural that this project of mine would indulge me that feeling. 

           After Mexican Bordado and my Matyo Hungarian Embroidery project I want to take you a hop, skip, and jump away to Sweden. Well, not quite a hop, skip, and jump away but nevertheless I think you will enjoy this journey.

           Embroidery techniques with names like Anundsjösöm, Blekingesöm, Delsbosöm, Hallandssöm, Jämtlandssöm, Järvsösöm, Korssöm, Marbosöm, Underläggssöm, Vävsöm, and etc. bring to imagination stories and visuals with roots in the textile cultural heritage of Sweden.

           In this project I worked on some scented sachets done on crisp white linen with Delsbosöm Embroidery.

           Delsbosöm, also called long stitch, is sewn as a single-sided flat stitch where the stitches are not meant to give total coverage on the pattern. Delsbosöm's figures have relatively smooth contours with motifs usually being flowers and leaves with stems in stalks. Old embroidery work is known to also have birds, baskets, and crowns.

                   

       

                    Delsbosöm was traditionally used to decorate basic linens and bed textiles. The linen used was rough so embroidery of simple straight flat stitches was added for a bit of interest. Older embroidery seemed pale as the dye used to dye the yarn did not attach well to the fibers. Since yarn and linen was expensive, Delsbosöm was embroidered especially on the lower hanging edge of bed linen and pillow coverings as a show of status and also on bedding beds. Layers of sheets with a weave of rosemary bush or winter sheep skin depending on the season were not uncommon. To show richness Delsbosöm was also embroidered on hangers that could be hung on furniture such as cabinet, stands, and bed frames.

             Age old Delsbosöm embroidery from the Delsbo region located in Hälsingland came from a time when textiles were highly valued and a beautifully decorated bed was an important status symbol. The textiles were a measure of the skill of the farm women. Since linen was an important commodity that contributed to the household economy, young women were valued, for example at courtships, based on their embroidering and textile handling abilities.

Interesting fact: In a fire insurance from 1853 bed and linen clothes were valued at 550 riksdaler (riksdaler was the name of a Swedish coin first minted in 1604. Between 1777 and 1873, it was the currency of Sweden) while everything else, except silver, copper and tin, was taken up to 120 riksdaler. 

              
                 So here’s to discovering and being inspired by the beauty of textiles. Notice more, explore more, experience more.

        

Credits:

http://textilhemslojd.se/brodera/broderitekniker-historik/delsbosom 

Sashiko Embroidery

             Continuing on after Mexican bordado, Hungarian Matyo, and Swedish Delsbosom, my embroidery journey takes me to Japan and Sashiko.

             I am always amazed at the deceptive simplicity of Japanese arts and crafts. The beauty of this simplicity moves me; at first look it seems obvious and straightforward but that accessibility turns out to be the product of in depth thought, mastery of materials, a delicate balance of form and allusion, and a commitment to clarity. The basic geometry and sparse detailing evoke natural simplicity making these pieces seem misleadingly effortless. Japanese arts is a testament to the illusion of simple things and what they hold beneath the surface.

               Sashiko, a centuries old art, is a form of Japanese folk embroidery using a variation of the simple running stitch or now well known as the sashiko stitch to create a patterned background. The geometric, all-over patterns include straight or curved lines of stitching arranged in a repeating pattern. The Japanese word sashiko means “little stabs” and refers to the small stitches used in this form of needlework. 

             For my first attempt at sashiko I chose a pre-printed sampler on 100% cotton and a pattern called 'Kaki-no-hana'. I also stayed true to sashiko by choosing  to work with sashiko thread and sashiko needle. The beautiful time-honored patterns are inspired by the Japanese' love and respect for nature and hence follow a rhythm and lyricism inspired by nature.

                    Sashiko is easy to master and is very meditative and relaxing. Although the patterns range from simple to very complicated, they are just a matter of breaking down the whole into linear parts. The patterns are always worked in linear only.

               The simple Sashiko stitch is used to create simple and complex designs and this style of embroidery is both beautiful and functional. Aesthetically the sashiko patterns are very pleasing with their symmetry and precise use of space. Functionally these stitches were used for mending and quilting. It was used to add weight and thickness for warmth in garments. Farmers and fishermen used and reused materials and sashiko techniques made the most of their resources. In the winter women of the families used sashiko techniques to extend the life of worn fabrics, mend, and winterize clothing, and embellish everyday items. Shades of indigo fabric were patched or quilted neatly together with sashiko stitches, covering holes and reinforcing worn areas.  Traditionally, sashiko patterns were sewn with off-white stitches on dark indigo fabric. The timeless excitement of indigo and white strikes me as a classic combination that carries to a clean and elegant look.

                  
                    I chose to sew my completed sampler into a drawstring bag. I chose a bright red fabric with small flowers which reminded me of the Japanese cherry blossoms for the lining of the bag. The combination of the dark blue and white with pops of red is so dramatic and chic.

A very good informative site on Sashiko and its history:

https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2016/04/sashiko